Egypt

Not gonna lie: this is a tough article to write. Having just visited Jordan, our expectations for Egypt were 100% anchored to our recent experiences, which almost certainly played a role in how we experienced the country (honestly, I would like to give Egypt a second try, and possibly try out other locations, just to see if it improves in my estimation)

That all being said…I have to share my truth for this trip as I saw it.

First things first: Egypt is DIRTY. The capital Cairo is a densely populated (25 million) metropolis that feels like the city-equivalent of smoking a pack of cigarettes a day: openly burning trash in the streets, horses and dogs eating out of garbage piles less than a block from the Great Pyramids, rows and rows of 20-story tall apartment buildings as far as the eye can see (none of which seem to feature any apparent building codes)…it’s overwhelming. Adding onto the craziness? The government is currently building an 18-lane highway right through the middle of town, tearing down everything and anything in its way. It’s complete chaos.

That all being said…the history of Egypt is, admittedly, astounding (honestly: seeing what ancient peoples were able to accomplish – with or without Aliens – is jaw dropping). I truly do not know or understand how the colors of outdoor paintings remain so vivid after thousands of years – it’s nothing less than mesmerizing. While we were there, we stayed a block away from the Great Pyramids, complete with a rooftop that overlooked them. It was a great view, although we didn’t feel 100% comfortable venturing out – the area seemed pretty rough, and our guide also strongly recommended that we not go exploring.

I will say this: seeing the Great Pyramid in person was a dream of mine, and being able to FINALLY climb it was truly a once in a lifetime experience. The pyramid itself was rife with tourists, most of whom were practically climbing all over one another to try and get a picture that fully conveys the impossible perspective of the sheer scope of the structure. The inside of the pyramid is no less impressive: several lengthy tunnels stretch on for what seem like eternity, and are most certainly NOT for the faint of heart (particularly if you’re claustrophobic – I witnessed several people turn back almost immediately). Back outside, you can opt to take a camel ride along the back side of the pyramids for a photo op, and twice a night, there is a light show directly over the Great Pyramids, with one in English and the other a random language (depending on the night of the week). It’s worth grabbing a drink from a rooftop to take it in – it’s free and modestly entertaining.

We Visited Karnak Temple, Saqqara, Memphis and several other locations before making our way down to Luxor. One thing that we were surprised to hear: even around the Great Pyramid, there are STILL new archaeological sites regularly being discovered and excavated. Due to the extreme heat and lack of funding, however, many of these sites are left alone, and it’s a near certainty that there are countless other tombs that have yet to be discovered, lost to the sands of time.

In Luxor, we finally began to appreciate what Egypt could offer. A much smaller population, local authentic feel, and local foods other than KFC began to appear, adding up to an experience that felt genuine and MUCH less crowded. Besides Luxor itself, the area is also host to the Valley of the Kings & Queens, Al Qarana, the Temple of Hatshepsut, and a host of other places that looked well worth visiting.

DABL’s Decision:

Although we were definitely put off by the air quality of the country, let’s face it: the call of human history is very hard to avoid. Being able to witness what was built so long ago, without machinery or modern engineering, is nothing short of mind boggling, and even though I wouldn’t recommend for Egypt for young families or inexperienced travelers, I do think it’s worth experiencing at least once, particularly if you’ve accumulated some experience with international travel. In my estimation, a week is probably a long enough time to experience the full “feel” of Egypt (unless you want to check out all 118 pyramids. Then obviously plan to stick around much longer).